HOSTAL AMIGO

This is the best rated hostal of Mexico City! It is located in the very center of the city and has a lot of facilities (internet, breakfast, bar, tours, etc.). Hostal Amigo offers a comfortable and friendly atmosphere with a multilingual staff that will help you with whatever you need in order to make your stay in Mexico City a memorable experience. It seems like the perfect place for young people!!

 

Rates for 1 night including breakfast

Private room 1 person; $230 (13 Euro)

Shared room 1 person; $ 150 (9 Euro)

For further information: http://www.hostelamigo.com/index.php/en

Gran Hotel De La Ciudad De Mexico

One of Mexico City’s most FANCY hotel is “ Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico”.

For the ones who’re seeking luxury in the very center of Mexico City, this is THE place to be.

A room for two costs approximately 100 Euro a night.

Even if you’re not staying at this hotel we strongly recommend you to take a breakfast on the terrace of the Grand Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico. It is not very expensive (around 10 Euro) and you will have a delicious breakfast while having one of the most spectacular views on the Zocalo.

 

For further information: http://www.granhoteldelaciudaddemexico.com.mx/

Bahía de Chamela

Many a fisherman’s bay with glorious miles of golden sand have gone the way of Puerto Vallarta, but Bahía de Chamela, 60km northwest of Melaque, lies forgotten by the outside world. The largest pueblo, Pérula (pop. 700), has few services and just one paved road, but its desolate dirt roads lined with shockingly bright flowers, empty expanses of sand punctuated by fishing lanchas, and village hospitality have an irresistible pull. Though Chamela receives its share of tourism, especially in December and April, Pérula remains uncommercialized—the Midas touch has yet to spoil the natural beauty and seclusion of the bay. Crime is virtually nonexistent in Pérula, but lone travelers should exercise caution on the deserted beaches and dark roads leading to town.

 

Transportation

 

Second-class buses from Puerto Vallarta to Manzanillo (5hr., 184 pesos) pass through Pérula (4hr., 90 pesos), and buses going from Melaque or Barra de Navidad to Puerto Vallarta (5hr., 140-145 pesos) also stop in Pérula. Always tell the bus driver where you’re going in advance and sit in the front so you don’t miss the stop. To get to Playa Pérula, descend at the big, white “Playa Dorada” sign and walk 30min. down a winding dirt road. Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking, but friendly locals will most likely offer a ride. To get to Playa Chamela, get off farther south at “El Súper,” where a sign points to the beach 1km away. Pérula is a 40min. walk along the shore.

Hotels in Pérula may pick you up from the station; otherwise, since Pérula lacks a formal taxi system, contact Felipe Santana (☎1004 5756), who will take you to points around the area; Playa Chamela costs 80 pesos both ways. To return to Pérula, catch a Primera Plus bus from the stop on the main highway. They also head to: Guadalajara (3hr.; 8, 10:30am, 4pm; 67 pesos); Manzanillo (2-5hr., every hr. 7:30am-10:30pm, 75 pesos) via Melaque (1hr., 47 pesos); and Puerto Vallarta (3hr., every hr. 7:30am-10:30pm, 88 pesos). To get out of town without having to walk back to the highway, catch a Transportes Cihuatlan bus from the corner of Tiburón and Independencia at 8am or midnight to Aútlan (2hr., 158 pesos), Guadalajara (3hr., 315 pesos), or Melaque (1hr., 70 pesos).

Practical Information 

The Centro de Salud is at the corner of Juárez and Pargo, three blocks west of the plaza. (☎333 9804. Regular hours M-F 9am-4pm, weekends and 24hr. emergency service available: knock loudly.) Farmacia Villa del Mar, on the east side of the plaza, has 24hr. service. (☎333 9800.) There is a LADATEL phone outside the Primera Plus Station, one outside Hotel Punta Pérula, and a couple scattered on the paved road through town. Internet is available in the orange house at the corner of Pargo and Independencia. (☎100 2381. Open M-F 10am-9pm. 20 pesos per hr.)

Accommodations And Food

Pérula offers few lodgings, so you won’t have to spend too much time looking. Hotel Punta Pérula 4, on the corner of Juárez and Tiburón 98 two blocks from the beach, is the best deal in this pueblito. Spacious rooms with antique-looking wooden shutters, bath, and TV open onto a large courtyard with hammocks drooping over flowers. (☎333 9782. Call ahead. High season singles 250 pesos; doubles 350 pesos. Low season 200/300 pesos. Cash only.) A more luxurious option is Estancia Dolphins 5, on Juárez and Paiva two blocks east of the plaza, featuring a gated courtyard with lush lawn and pool adorned with a life-size cayman statuette. The enormous rooms come with fittingly large beds, fan, TV, glass dolphin-themed side tables, and lovely tile bathrooms. (☎333 9850. Call ahead. Rooms 350 pesos, for up to 4 people. Cash only.)

The diner in Pérula faces the toughest of choices: seafood or tacos. If you opt for the former, head over to La Prieta 4, on the beach near the rock jetty. Mariscos (seafood) here are served up fried, filleted, in salads—however you like. The staple camarones (shrimp; 70 pesos) go well with a 10-peso bottle of Pacífico. (Open daily low season 7-11pm, longer hours in high season. Cash only.) The long row of seafood restaurants stretching along the beach are open intermittently, mostly during the late summer months, but a couple are usually open at any time—ask the fishermen on the beach. Taquería Michel 1, just southeast of the plaza on Independencia, is good for a cheap taco fix. The usual antojitos and agua fresca are on tap. (Tacos 7 pesos. Quesadillas 10 pesos. Open daily 6-11pm. Cash only.)

Beaches

Fishing boats far outnumber people on the sleepy local beaches. The bay’s northernmost point, Punta de Pérula, shelters Playa Pérula, perfect for swimming. A 40min. walk down the virgin beach will bring you to the Villa Polinesia Motel and Campsite, marking Playa Chamela. Kilometers of empty sand invite absent-minded, tranquil walks south to Playa Rosada, where rougher waters cater to bodysurfing more so than casual swimming. Occasional palapas refresh the parched and weary bodysurfer, and lanchas from Playa Pérula transport wanna-be Robinson Crusoes to the nearby islands or on fishing trips (600 pesos each way; ask around for deals). Inquire from the fishermen at the northern end of Playa Pérula, about 1km north of town.

Half a century ago, Puerto Vallarta (pop. 350,000) was just another sleepy fishing village lost in the jungle between the mountains and a massive bay on the Pacific. Richard Burton, Liz Taylor, and droves of reporters following the lovers invaded the tiny village in 1963 to film Night of the Iguana, uncovering the beauty of the area for the world to see. The film thrust Vallarta into the public eye, jumpstarting the development of the city of 200,000 that is now famed as a tourist destination. While Night of the Iguana is long forgotten, Vallarta’s massive resorts, epic nightlife, and timeless allure ensure it will remain a popular destination far into the future.

Flights

Ordaz International Airport (PVR), 8km north of town. To get downtown from the airport, take a blue “Centro” or “Olas Altas” bus or a taxi. To get back from town, catch a “Novia Alta,” “Marfil,” or “Aeropuerto” bus on Cárdenas, Insurgentes, or Juárez. Served by Aeroméxico (☎224 2777, toll-free ☎800-021-4000); Alaska (☎221 1350); American (☎221 1799, toll-free ☎800-904-6000); Continental (☎221 2213); and Mexicana (☎221 1266, toll-free ☎800-501-9900).

Buses

The bus station is north of the centro, just beyond the airport. To get downtown, take a “Centro” or “Olas Altas” bus or taxi. To get to the bus station from downtown, take an “Ixtapa” bus (4.50 pesos) northbound at the plaza. Primera Plus/Flecha Amarilla (☎290 0715) offers service to: Mexico City (12hr., 7pm, 823 pesos); Aguascalientes (8hr., 2:45pm, 551 pesos); Guadalajara (5hr., every hr. 8am-1am, 336 pesos); León (8hr.; 11:45am, 1:45, 10:30pm; 578 pesos); Manzanillo (5hr.; 7, 10:30am, 1:30, 4:30, 10pm; 184 pesos) via Barra de Navidad (4hr., 173 pesos); Melaque (4hr., 168 pesos); Querétaro (12hr., 9pm, 620 pesos). Futura (☎290 1001), ETN (☎290 0996 or 290 0997), and Pacífico (☎280 1008) offer similar services.

Taxis

Leave from the centro for the airport, bus station, or Marina Vallarta (60 pesos). Rides into town are much cheaper.

Local Buses

Local buses enter the city on México, which becomes Díaz Ordaz. All combis and any municipal bus operating south of the Sheraton or labeled “Centro” pass the main plaza, while those labeled “Hoteles” service the hotel strip. Buses stop at the clearly marked parada signs and at the covered benches, but you can flag one down almost anywhere. Buses going to points south go along Badillo, while those heading north travel along Juárez. (Buses and combis operate daily 6am-10pm. 4.50 pesos.)

Car Rental

National, Ascencio km 1.5 (☎01 800 003 9500), at the airport. Thrifty, Ascencio 7926 (☎221 2984).

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Running roughly east-west, Río Cuale bisects Puerto Vallarta before hitting the ocean. Mex. 200 from Manzanillo runs into town south of the river, becoming Insurgentes. The ritzy waterfront between Plaza Mayor and 31 de Octubre, called the malecón, is home to pricey restaurants, hotels, clubs, and the quintessential souvenir shops. North of the malecón, Morelos becomes Perú before joining the coastal route. Farther north lie the airport, marina, and bus station. The Zona Romántica, southwest of the river, is a mixture of bars, cafes, businesses, shops, and restaurants of all sorts. The southern end has almost all the cheap hotels, best beaches, and budget restaurants.

Tourist Offices

(☎226 8080 or 223 2500, ext. 230 or 231), on Juárez in the Presidencia Municipal. The Secretaria de Turismo del Estado de Jalisco (SETUJAL; ☎221 2676 or 2677), on the 2nd fl. of Plaza Marina. Free maps, brochures, and local English-language newspapers. Distributes Bay, a free publication that lists entertainment options in the city. Open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa 9am-noon. Another branch located inside the Parque Hidalgo (☎226 8080 ext. 230.) Open daily 11am-6pm.

Consulates

Canada, Blvr. Ascencio 1951 (☎293 0099, emergencies 800 706 2900; fax 293 0098), in the hotel zone. Open M-F 9am-3pm. US (☎222 0069, emergencies 013 332 682 145 in Guadalajara; fax 223 0074), in Nuevo Vallarta north of the city. Open M-F 8:30am-12:30pm.

Currency Exchange and Banks: Banamex (☎226 6110), at Juárez and Zaragoza, in front of the Presidencia Municipal. Open M-F 9am-4pm, Sa 10am-2pm. Banorte, Olas Altas 246 (☎223 0481), between V. Carranza and Badillo. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 10am-2pm. Both have 24hr. ATMs. Casas de cambio are everywhere, especially near the malecón. Rates vary, but are lower than at banks. Most open daily 9am-7pm.

American Express: Morelos 660 (☎223 2955; fax 223 2926), at Abasolo. Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm.

Luggage storage: At the bus station. 3 pesos per hr. Open 24hr.

Bookstore: Una Página en el Sol, Olas Altas 339 (☎222 3608), at Diéguez. Additional location at Aldama 180 (☎223 0115). Book exchanges welcome. Most English-language books 20-40 pesos. Huge sandwiches 30-40 pesos, small desserts 16-25 pesos. Open daily 7:30am-midnight.

Laundromat: Laundry Aguamátic, Constitución 279 (☎222 5978), between Cárdenas and Carranza. 12 pesos per kg. Open M-Sa 9am-8pm.

Emergency: ☎060.

Police: Revolución 350 (☎290 0507 or 0512), by the airport. Take a “Las Juntas” bus.

Red Cross: (☎222 1533) on Río de la Plata at Río Balsas. Take the “Cruz Roja” bus from Cárdenas and Insurgentes.

Hospitals: CMQ Hospital, Badillo 365 (☎223 1919), at Insurgentes. Also has a 24hr. pharmacy (☎222 1330). Hospital Medasist, Diéguez 360 (☎223 0444 or 0656), at Insurgentes.

Internet Access: PV Cafe.com, Olas Altas 250 (}/fax 222 0092), at Rodríguez. Cafe, small bar, fax, and copy service. Internet 35 pesos per hr. Wi-Fi available. Significant discounts for members; temporary memberships available. Open daily 8am-1am. A 24hr. Internet cafe is located inside the Hotel Río, Morelos 170. (☎222 0366. 15 pesos per hr. Cash only.)

Post Office: Colombia 1014 (☎223 1360 or 222 6308) , about 12 blocks north of the plaza on Juárez. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Postal Code: 48300.

ACCOMMODATIONS

A city of ritzy resorts and condos, the only budget hotel options in Puerto Vallarta are south of the river, clustered on a small strip of Madero. Camping on the beach is prohibited in Puerto Vallarta, but once you pass into Nayarit it is permissible. Look for stretches of beach not adjoining hotels, and exercise caution overnight.

 

Hotel Azteca, Madero 473

(☎222 2750), between Jacarandas and Naranjo. Beautiful, potted plants extend through the courtyard to the 2nd fl., where clean rooms with bath and fan await. Towel deposit 50 pesos. Reception 24hr. Singles 200 pesos, with TV 250; doubles 300/350 pesos. Up to 50 pesos extra in high season. Cash only.

Hotel Villa del Mar, Madero 440

(☎222 2885 or 0785), 2 blocks east of Insurgentes. A high-ceilinged lobby winds around a sweeping staircase surrounded with eclectic posters from faraway lands. Large, clean rooms with bath and fan; some with access to the pretty green side courtyard. Rooftop terrace with a view of the centro. Towel deposit 50 pesos. Singles 230 pesos, with balcony 300 pesos; doubles 260/350 pesos. All rooms at balcony prices during high season. 6% fee for MC/V.

Hostel Oasis, Libramiento 222

(☎222 2636; www.oasishostel.com ). Take a “Tunel” bus and get off at the first traffic light. Located a short walk from the centro, the only youth hostel in town offers simple dorms, communal bathrooms, laundry service, Internet access, luggage storage and lockers, and a communal kitchen. Breakfast included. Check-in 6am-midnight. 140 pesos per night. Cash only.

Hotel Belmar, Insurgentes 161

(☎223 1872), at the corner of Serdán. A gleaming staircase leads past the lobby to gorgeous white rooms with large beds, luxurious bathrooms, outdoor sinks, and balconies overlooking most of Vieja Vallarta to the river. Reception 24hr. Singles 290 pesos; doubles 370 pesos; A/C 60 pesos extra. AmEx/MC/V.

Hotel Lina, Madero 376

(☎222 1661). Lina’s vivid color scheme lends a tropical ambience that carries over into comfortable rooms with TV, bath, and fan. Reception 24hr. Singles 200 pesos; doubles 250 pesos. 30 pesos more in high season. Cash only.

Hotel Ana Liz, Madero 429

(☎222 1757). Small rooms with funky curtains hold wood-framed beds, bath, fan, and lots of furniture. Reception 24hr. Singles 190 pesos; doubles low season 220 pesos, high season 250 pesos; triples 300 pesos. Cash only.

Hotel Bernal, Madero 423

(☎222 3605). An inviting courtyard leads to clean, spare rooms. Private bath and fans. Free purified water. Towel deposit 30 pesos. Reception 24hr. Singles 220 pesos; doubles 280 pesos; triples 340 pesos. 30-40 pesos more in high season. Cash only.

FOOD

Puerto Vallarta, living up to its international billing, serves cuisine from around the globe. It comes with a hefty cost, though, and finding cheap food can be a challenge. The best place to look is south of the river, where a slew of restaurants serve traditional tacos and antojitos for decent prices. Innumerable street vendors along Madero and Cárdenas hawk decent tacos at all hours of the day and night for the lowest prices in the city. Olas Altas and the surrounding streets are home to a variety of cafes and delis with lighter options. There is also a supermarket, Gutiérrez Rizo, at Constitución and Serdán. (☎222 0222. Open daily 6:30am-11pm. AmEx.)

Planeta Vegetariano, Iturbide 270

(☎222 3073; www.planetavegetariano.com ), at Hidalgo, a few blocks inland from Plaza Mayor. This intimate, muraled vegetarian restaurant deserves its glittering reputation, with new dishes and themes every day. The all-you-can-eat buffet (65 pesos) includes 5 gourmet dishes (non-dairy options available), soup, salad bar, agua fresca, coffee, tea, and dessert. Breakfast buffet M-Sa 8am-11:30am. Dinner buffet daily 11:30am-10pm. Open daily 8am-10pm. Cash only.

Restaurant Brasil, Carranza 210

(☎222 2909), off Vallarta. This Brazilian grill is for the ambitious, serving up course after course of exquisitely prepared meats complemented by mountains of garnish and fried plantains—tell the waiter when you can’t lift the fork anymore and he’ll stop bringing meat. Mens dinner 190 pesos, for women 160 pesos. Open daily 2-9pm. MC/V.

La Casa de los Hot Cakes, Badillo 289

(☎222 6272), at Constitución. A piece of genuine Americana in Vieja Vallarta, with the full run of breakfast foods on the menu. Waffle and pancake specials 31-40 pesos. American coffee 13 pesos. Pressed orange juice 12 pesos. Open daily 8am-2pm. Cash only; US dollars accepted.

The Coffee Cup, Gómez 146-A

(☎222 8584; www.thecoffeecuppv.com ), near Olas Altas. A blend of Mexican beans from around the Republic flavors the air in this cafe/deli. The fruit smoothies (37 pesos) go well with the large deli wraps (55 pesos). Coffee beans 95 pesos per kg. Free Wi-Fi. Open daily 8am-10pm. Cash only.

Las Tres Huastecas, Olas Altas 444

(☎222 3017), on the corner of Rodriguez. The poetry of “El Querreque,” as the oaxaqueño owner refers to himself, is immortalized on the walls of his simple breakfast spot. Quick scrambled eggs with tortillas and fried potatoes 30 pesos. Open daily 7am-8pm. Cash only.

Lonchería Chuyin, Libertad 187

(☎222 6411), between Juárez and Morelos. Take the food to go and sit in Plaza Mayor or on the malecón. Serves an abundance of options for a quick bite: 2 burritos or 3 sincronizadas (toasted tortillas) for 25 pesos. Sandwiches 23-30 pesos. Fruity licuados 17-22 pesos. Open daily 8am-10pm. Cash only.

Art Cafe, Hidalgo 390

(☎222 4812), on the corner of Iturbide. Choose from healthful options: tea, coffee, sandwiches, salads, and desserts. A Mediterranean smorgasbord at its finest in an artsy downtown setting. Espresso 15 pesos. Pastrami and other sandwiches 55-65 pesos. Open 9am-9pm. Cash only.

SIGHTS AND BEACHES

Vallarta’s most popular attractions are its natural gifts: the striking green mountains and the miles of coastline and warm water. Watersports enthusiasts have a lot to choose from in Vallarta—activities like parasailing (8-10min. ride US$30) are extremely popular, especially in the morning. Jet skis (doubles 550 pesos per 30min.), banana boats (350 pesos per person for 1hr.), and kayaks (150 pesos per hr.), are also available—ask around at the pier and on the malecón. Chico’s Dive Shop, 772 Díaz Ordaz, offers scuba diving courses, certification classes, and trips. (☎222 1895 or 1875 at Mismaloya; www.chicos-diveshop.com. 1hr. course US$25. Certification classes US$370. 4hr. of snorkeling 400 pesos per person. English-speaking staff lowers rates for returning customers and groups. Open daily 8am-10pm.) Equestrian fanatics can take to the hills on horseback; sign up at the stand in the plaza on Olas Altas at Carranza. (☎222 0386. 150 pesos per hr.)

Some of the least crowded and most gorgeous beaches stretch south of town on the road to Mismaloya and north into Nayarit. The beaches near the centro are used most often for chatting and people-watching along the malecón, or for the watersports centered around Muelle de los Muertos (Pier of the Dead), which separates Playa de los Muertos (Beach of the Dead) from Playa de Olas Altas (Tall Waves Beach). The former has clearer water and is a better swimming area. The muddy river empties into the ocean at Olas Altas, which is a more popular spot for watersports. To get to either, walk west along Cárdenas or Badillo. Near the southern end of Playa de los Muertos is The Blue Chairs resort, the world’s largest gay and lesbian beachfront resort.

Isla del Río Cuale is accessible by short stairways from both bridges spanning the Río Cuale, as well as by a bridge on the seaward side that connects the island with Playa de Olas Altas. A tree-shaded pathway runs the length of the diminutive island, past restaurants, boutiques, a club, and merchants’ stands with handicrafts and souvenirs. The Museo del Cuale, at the seaward end of the island, houses interesting displays on Mesoamerican culture and regional history. (Open M-F 9am-2pm and 3-6pm. Free.) Steep stairs beginning behind the Church of Guadalupe lead up the mini-mountain into the wealthy Zaragoza neighborhood, known locally as “Gringo Gulch,” where the first Americans and Canadians relocated. The rose-colored bridge spanning the rooftops connects Casa Kimberley, Zaragoza 445, the former love nest of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, to its rooftop pool in the building across the street.

While best known for its beaches and clubs, Puerto Vallarta has a startlingly large art community demonstrated by the numerous art galleries all over town, which feature all types of media. Each week from October to May, a program called ArtWalk showcases different galleries around the city. Each Wednesday from 6-10pm, some of the galleries have free cocktail exhibitions of their work. Pick up a program from the tourist office or look for ArtWalk flags around town. Most ArtWalk galleries have regular summer hours. Call specific galleries for more information. For a thrill, head to La Paloma bullring, located on Av. Las Palmas across from the Marina. Four bullfighters are showcased each week on Wednesday night at 5pm. (☎221 0414. Tickets 350 pesos. Take a 60-peso taxi or a 5-peso bus to SAM’S/Wal-Mart and walk down Las Palmas.) A quieter night waits at Cine Bahía, Insurgentes 63, showing American and international films, often dubbed into Spanish. (☎222 1717. 30 pesos, senior citizens and children 25 pesos; Tu 25 pesos)

NIGHTLIFE

Like any resort destination, Puerto Vallarta boils over every night with thousands of well-dressed locals and foreigners streaming onto the malecón and nearby streets. The boardwalk sees the most action at night, while the lively gay scene centers south of the river on Olas Altas. The Zona Romántica offers smaller, more intimate bars, while the Plaza Marina far north of the city (reachable by taxi, 60-80 pesos, or a 15min. hike from the last bus route) has a series of clubs catering to college student staying in nearby hotels. The party doesn’t really start until 11pm-midnight, but go a little early to beat the lines outside the bigger clubs, which generally charge a hefty cover of 100-150 pesos. US dollars are accepted at most clubs.

Zoo, Díaz Ordaz 630

(☎222 4945). Pumping music keeps the beat for the revelers on the cramped dance floor, drinks in hand. The bravest move into the iron cages. An elephant statue adds to the animal motif. Cover Sa-Su 150 pesos; includes 2 drinks. Open daily noon-6am. MC/V.

Hilo, Díaz Ordaz 622

(☎223 5361), on the waterfront. Most of the club is a dance floor, with a young crowd packing into the standing room and groups of girls dancing atop the bar. Private seating upstairs offers some relief from the sweaty crowds and loud rap below. Beer 30 pesos. Mixed drinks 50 pesos. Cover F-Sa 100 pesos. Open daily 4pm-6am. Cash only.

Cafe San Ángel

(☎223 1273), Olas Altas 449, on the corner of F. Rodríguez. Modern art, chill music, and the occasional acoustic performance give this bistro/bar an alternative, intellectual vibe. Relax in the wicker chairs and enjoy the tapas (45-65 pesos). Breakfast served all day. Coffee 25 pesos, hard drinks 35-40 pesos. Open daily 8am-2am. Cash only.

Christine Discotheque

(☎224 0202 or 2990) on Av. Las Garzas, located in the NH Krystal hotel just before the marina. The proximity to resorts north of the city draws crowds of college kids who pack the dance floor and the seating area. Massive video screen. Occasional concerts and special events; drop by for a schedule. Dress code F-Sa, no shorts or t-shirts. Cover W and F-Sa 200 pesos for men, 100 pesos for women; Th and Su 440 pesos with open bar. Open W-Su 10pm-6am. AmEx/D/MC/V.

Club Roxy, Ignacio Vallarta 217

Between Madero and Carranza. A mix of ages frequents Roxy to hear the live reggae-rock and 70s dance music. Live music starts at 10:30pm. Beer 25 pesos. Bebidas nacionales 2-for-1 8-11pm. Open M-Sa 8am-4pm.

San Miguel de Allende

You’re as likely to see greying hippies as mariachis in this diverse town known for its influx of artists, who say the sunshine is particularly inspirational here. Today, expats account for up to 12% of the population. Despite a surfeit of English-speakers, the city’s lively mercado, shady plazas, colonial churches, and quiet gardens retain a calm appeal.

BUSES

To get from the bus station to the centro, take a “Centro” bus (every 15min. 7am-10pm, 4 pesos) to the corner of Colegio and Mesones, near the statue of Allende on horseback. Walk 2 blocks west on Mesones, then 1 block left on Relox to Plaza Principal. Alternatively, take a taxi (20 pesos).

Flecha Amarilla (☎152 0084)

Goes to: Guadalajara (5hr., 5 per day 7:15am-8pm, 336 pesos); Guanajuato (1hr., 7 per day 7:15am-8pm, 81 pesos); Mexico City (3hr.; M-Sa 9:40am and 4pm, Su 9:40am, 4, 5pm; 212 pesos); Querétaro (1hr.; 5:30, 6:30, 7:20am, and every 40min. 8am-8pm; 42 pesos); San Luis Potosí (4hr., 7 per day 7:30am-6:45pm, 126 pesos).

Herradura de Plata/Pegasso Plus (☎152 0725) and ETN (☎152 6407) provide similar service to fewer locations.

CAR RENTAL

HOLA

Plaza Principal 8 (☎152 0198 or 154 8621; www.holarentacar.com). Rates start at 402 pesos per day, plus insurance and mileage.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

San Miguel is 97km southeast of Guanajuato and 274km northwest of Mexico City. Most attractions are within walking distance of the centro, Jardín Principal (in the Plaza Principal). Calles San Francisco, Relox, Correo, and Hidalgo border the Jardín. The names of east-west streets change every few blocks. The towering parroquia in front of the Jardín Allende is always visible.

Tourist Office

Consejo Turístico (☎152 0900; www.turismosanmiguel.com.mx), Plaza Principal 8, opposite the Parroquia. Open M-F 8:30am-8pm, Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-5:30pm.

Tours

Tranvía Turístico “El Mayorazgo”, Plaza Principal 18 (☎154 5408; www.transtur-imperial.com)

Offers comprehensive 1hr. trolley tours (6 per day, M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-8pm; English-language tour 4pm; 60 pesos, children 40 pesos). The library runs a colonial House & Garden tour, departing from the library (Su noon, 150 pesos), to benefit an educational charity. Private tours offered in high season by private guides like Ricardo Salgado González (☎154 5965, cell 111 3817; ricardo_salgado60@yahoo.com.mx).

ACCOMMODATIONS

As San Miguel’s popularity with foreigners rises, budget accommodations become harder to find. In general, prices drop as you move farther from the Jardín. Many hotels will offer discounts for longer stays. All require noon check-out.

Hostal Alcatraz, Relox 54

(☎152 8543; www.geocities.com/alcatrazhostel).

Popular, homey hostel with single-sex dorms. Everyone mingles in the kitchen, TV room, and central patio. Free Internet. 20-peso key deposit. Reception open M-Sa 9am-10pm, Su 10am-9pm. 4- to 6-bed dorms 102 pesos. Cash only. Also manages the modern Hostel Inn, a few blocks north, popular with large groups. Dorms 120 pesos; doubles with bath 270 pesos. Cash only. Alcatraz 1, Inn

Casa de Huéspedes, Mesones 27

(☎152 1378)

Around the corner from the Templo del Oratorio. Tastefully decorated, spacious rooms branch off the courtyard; some with balconies and talavera baths. Top-floor terrace has spectacular views of the city’s churches. Reservations recommended. Singles 180 pesos; doubles 300 pesos; up to 2 additional people, 100 pesos each. Monthly rates available for apartments with kitchens. Cash only.

Hotel Allende, Hidalgo 22

(☎152 7929; hotelallendesma@yahoo.com.mx).

Simple, carpeted rooms all have cable TV and Wi-Fi. Room #15 has a bathtub and a grandiose view through a floor-to-ceiling window. Receptionist Leobardo gives Spanish classes (1hr., 80 pesos). Reservations recommended. Doubles 350; up to 2 additional people 100 pesos each. Cash only.

Hotel Mayorazgo, Hidalgo 8

(☎152 1309; posadamayorazgo@hotmail.com)

Between San Francisco and Mesones. Huge rooms with spacious bath and TV surround a grassy outdoor patio in this centrally located hotel. Cozy apartments with small kitchen and living area also available. Reception open 8am-midnight; ring bell if unattended. Singles 250 pesos; doubles 300 pesos; apartments 350 pesos for 2 people, 100 pesos per additional person.

Posada San Miguelito, Canal 9

(☎154 8393; www.posadasanmiguelito.com)

Just half a block west of the Jardín. Cable TV, Wi-Fi, and a beautiful rooftop terrace. Rustic decor. Rooms on the second fl. have balconies. Reservations requested. Doubles 450-600 pesos; up to 2 additional people 100 pesos each. MC/V. 4

FOOD

Restaurants and cafes occupy almost every corner of San Miguel, and the sweet aroma of international cuisine wafts through the cobbled streets. Unfortunately, prices can be high. For the best values, visit the streets around the mercado on Colegio.

You can get delicious and cheap tortas (13-40 pesos) at Tortitlán 1, Juárez 17, between San Francisco and Mesones. (☎152 3376 or 154 6688. Tacos 9-19 pesos. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-5pm. Cash only.)

Supermarket and market

Bonanza, Mesones 43A, is a local supermarket. (☎152 1260. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 8am-5pm. Cash only.) The covered Mercado Ignacio Ramírez, where Colegio meets Animas, is where most locals do their daily food shopping. The Mercado de San Juan de Dios and el parian pedestrian area between Insurgentes and San Rafael also offer cheap eats.

El Comal de Doña Meche, Insurgentes 62

(☎152 0012)

Facing the library. Under colorful paper streamers, Doña Meche herself serves up fat gorditas and tortillas stuffed with anything from migaja (breadcrumbs; 11 pesos) to the smokey mole con pollo (chicken; 13 pesos). Put out the fire from a greasy, spicy, and delicious chile relleno (stuffed peppers; 25 pesos) with horchata (7 pesos). Open daily 9:30am-8:30pm. Cash only.

Los Burritos, Mesones 69-A

(☎152 3222)

Tasty and economical comida rápida. Family-run local staple offers huge selection of burritos (4-6 pesos). Carnivorous travelers will like the burrito maxi (10 pesos) and the hot and cheesy burriqueso maxi (15 pesos). Fresh fruit juice (6 pesos) puts a sweet end to the meal. Open M-Sa 10:30am-6pm. Cash only.

La Villa de Pancho, Quebrada 12

(☎152 1247)

Near the corner of Pilancón. Welcome to the home of the friendly father-daughter duo, Carlos and Cristina. Cerveza 12-16 pesos. Breakfast all day 25-35 pesos. Comida corrida from 40 pesos. Open daily 11am-9pm. Attached Casa de Huéspedes and lavandería. Wash and dry 10 pesos per kg. 3

La Piñata, Jesús 1

(☎544 001)

On Umarán, a block west of the Jardín. Enjoy a seemingly bottomless licuado (18 pesos) with the mellow mix of locals, students, and backpackers feasting on veggie tostadas (10 pesos) and sandwiches (20-25 pesos) in this small but animated spot. Breakfast 40 pesos. Comida corrida 50 pesos. Open daily 8:30am-10pm. Cash only.

El Taco Real, Relox 15

(☎152 6677).

Serves up an affordable and stylish Mexican feast. Daily vegetarian-friendly buffet (65 pesos) includes creamy mushroom rajas and pozole (chicken and corn soup). All the agua fresca you can drink 10 pesos. Breakfast 45 pesos. Open daily 9am-8pm. Cash only.

Dulces Típicas, Ancha de San Antonio 3

(☎152 2882)

This dulcería dishes out savory tacos (3 for 12 pesos) from 9am until noon. While there, ogle the marzipan and cinnamon cactus in its glass box (298 pesos), or snap up the more reasonably priced champagne- or tequila-flavored cajeta sweets (28 pesos per box). Coffee 6 pesos. Open M and W-Su 9am-8pm. Cash only.

Las Musas, Macías 75

(☎152 4946)

Inside Bellas Artes. Italian and Mexican cuisine among the cultural center’s murals. Feast on sweet pastries created under the supervision of the Italian-born owner. Salads 59-65 pesos. Lasagna 70 pesos. Pizzas 79-95 pesos. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 10am-2pm. Cash only.

SIGHTS

The best way to experience San Miguel is by foot—nearly all sites of interest lie within walking distance of the Jardín. They are listed in order of prominence.

La Parroquia. 

-Calle Plaza Principal Sur, in front of the Jardín. ☎152 4197. Open daily 6am-9pm. Mass daily 6, 7, 9am, noon, 8:15pm, Su also 8am, 1pm.-

San Miguel’s most impressive sight was built in the 17th century by indigenous forced labor as punishment for killing Spanish herds. The neo-Gothic facade and tower were added to the church in 1890 by indígena mason Zeferino Gutiérrez, who is rumored to have learned the style from postcards of French cathedrals. Pointed arches and flute-like towers enclose chandeliers and gold trim that glitter in the sunlight. At the front is a tremendous gold-leaf altar. The basement holds the tomb of Anastasio Bustamante, three-time president between 1830 and 1841, although his heart resides in a chapel in Mexico City. Spotlights illuminate the church at night.

San Miguel For Pocket Change. 

To see the sights without spending a dime, check out the murals in the 18th century Bellas Artes center (always free). On Sundays the Casa de Allende is free also. For the biggest selection of ceramics and silverwork, descend the stairs at the corner of Relox and Palmar to the Mercado de Artesanías. Nearby, the covered Mercado Igancio Ramírez, where Colegio meets Animas, is where most locals do their daily food shopping. The Mercado de San Juan de Dios and the pedestrian area between Insurgentes and San Rafael also offer cheap eats. After dark, take advantage of 2-for-1 drinks at La Azotea, then continue on to El Caporal for live Mexican music.

Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez

-Macías 75, next to Iglesia de la Concepción. ☎152 0289; cceninba@prodigy.net.mx. Galleries open Tu-Sa 10am-5:30pm.-

“El Nigromante” (Bellas Artes) . Housed in a former 18th-century convent, this cultural center and art school has become one of the most important spaces in San Miguel. The building previously functioned as a primary school for girls and a fortress before taking shape as an art school in the 1930s. Today, the cultural center presents magnificent temporary exhibits and is a common venue for the town’s varied festivals, including the Chamber Music Festival. The stunning murals around the peaceful, manicured courtyard are by Pedro Martínez, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and Eleanor Cohen. The center also offers various classes, including ceramics, dance, art, and guitar, some in English. There are also occasional European and US film showings.

Other Sights Away From The Centro 

The Jardín Botánico el Charco del Ingenio

 

-Taxi from Jardín Principal, 30 pesos. You can also take a 4-peso “Gigante” bus from Colegio and Mesones; get off at the Gigante stop and walk 15min. north along the highway. Signs will guide the way.☎154 4715;www.laneta.apc.org/charco. Camping available. Open daily 9am-4pm. 30 pesos, students and children 15 pesos.-

Is home to colonial ruins and a dazzling array of cacti and succulents. About 1300 species grow along 8km of walking paths in the park (1 sq. km)

Enjoy thebreathtaking view of San Miguel and the surrounding mountains from the mirador above the city. (From the Jardín, go east 3 blocks on Correo to Salida Real a Querétero; take a right and walk south for 15min. The mirador will be on your left. Or, take a 4-peso “Gigante” bus from Colegio and Mesones or Juárez, but tell the driver you’re going to the mirador.)

Hot springs fans will find paradise at La Gruta, just outside of town. Set amidst verdant gardens, their four pools, one of which is in a man-made grotto, are very popular with locals on weekend afternoons. (Carretera San Miguel a Hidalgo km 10. From the station, take a “Dolores Hidalgo” bus and get off at El Cortijo; 10min., 6 pesos. Alternatively, take a “Santuario” bus from Calzada de la Luz and Relox and tell the driver you’re going to La Gruta; 20min., 7 pesos. Turn left on the dirt road directly ahead and follow the signs down the path. When returning to San Miguel, flag down a bus along the road. Or, continue to Dolores Hidalgo by walking right to El Cortijo, crossing the highway and flagging down a bus that says “Dolores”; 40min., 20 pesos. ☎185 2099. La Gruta open daily 8am-5pm. 80 pesos. Cash only.)

Guanajuato

GUANAJUATO

Once one of the three greatest mining centers in the Americas, Guanajuato is a college town and livelier than ever, offering visitors affordable prices and plenty to do both day and night. A superstitious city still haunted by its colonial-era legends and stories of hidden treasures. The city’s tangle of serpentine streets overflows with monuments to silver barons and revolutionary luminaries. A small-town feel and colonial charm earned the city its UNESCO World Heritage status in 1988,

BUSES

Guanajuato’s bus station, Guanajuato a Sila km 7 (☎733 1329 or 1340), is located about 8km west of town. To get to the centro, take a “Pozuelos” bus from the station; “Mercado” buses go to the market. Local buses criss-cross the entire city, running westward above ground and eastward under ground (every 10min. 6am-10:30pm, 4 pesos). Taxis into town run about 30 pesos. To get to the bus station, take a “Central de Autobuses” bus from Plaza de la Paz. Primera Plus/Flecha Amarilla (☎733 1333) sends first-class buses to:Guadalajara (4hr., 10 per day 8:40am-11:30pm, 246 pesos), Mexico City (4hr., 11 per day 5:30am-11:59pm, 287 pesos) or San Miguel de Allende (1hr., 7 per day 9:30am-7:30pm, 81 pesos).

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Guanajuato, 380km northwest of Mexico City, is a tangled maze of streets and callejones (colonial alleyways) that will leave you dizzy. Plaza de la Paz, the Basílica, and Jardín Unión mark the centro, with the university’s Moorish architecture looming in the background. Juárez, the main pedestrian street, climbs eastward past the mercado and Plaza de la Paz, becoming Obregón just past the Basilica, then Sopeña after Teatro Juárez.

Tourist Office: Secretaria de Desarrollo Turístico, Plaza de la Paz 14

(☎732 1574 or 1982;www.guanajuato-travel.com ).

Free maps and cultural pamphlets. Open M-F 9:30am-7:30pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-2pm.

Tours: Transportes Turísticos de Guanajuato, Bajos de la Basilíca 2.

(☎732 2134)

Across from the tourist office, offers comprehensive city tours. Go 1hr. ahead to arrange for an English guide. (4hr.; 10:30am, 1:30, 4pm; 100 pesos, excluding museum entrance fees.) Open daily 8:30am-9pm. The tiny Travelling office, Plazuela de la Compañía 12-A (☎732 0637; travelling_gto@hotmail.com), specializes in student airfare and adventure activities. Open M-F 10am-2pm and 4-9pm, Sa 9am-3pm.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Inexpensive and charming hotels populate the area around the Basilica. Don’t be tempted to settle for the cheap but unpleasant lodgings surrounding the mercado.

Sangre de Cristo 9

(☎732 5483; www.hostalitoguanajuato.com )

Just off Plaza Allende. This homey hostel with guanajuatense decor and a bathtub garden in the dining area attracts a loyal crowd. Extremely helpful management provides breakfast and unlimited coffee as well as a welcome drink and walking tour. Free Internet. Check-out noon. Dorms 135 pesos, 100 pesos for longer stays; private room 160 pesos per person, with bath 190. 10% discount with HI card. MC/V.

Casa Mexicana, Sóstenes Rocha 28

(☎732 7393; www.casamexicanaweb.com )

Near Teatro Cervantes. Colorful hostel with an inviting courtyard and kitchenl. Laundry 35 pesos per 3kg. Internet 10 pesos per hr. Check-out noon. Dorms 65 pesos; private rooms 105 pesos per person, with bath 145 pesos. Cash only.

Casa Bertha, Tamboras 9

(☎732 1316; www.paginasprodigy.com/casabertha )

A short walk up a callejón from Plaza Mexiamora. Labyrinthine stairways lead to cozy rooms, most with cable TVs and sparkling baths, some with kitchens. View from the huge terrace looks the Monumento al Pípila right in the eye. Check-out noon. Rooms 130-180 pesos per person. Cash only.

La Casa del Tío, Cantarranas 47

(☎733 9728; www.travelbymexico.com/guan/casadeltio)

Across the street from the Plazuela Cantarranas. Bright hostel popular among international clientele for its clean dorms with big windows, kitchen, and TV room. View of the city from the colorful rooftop terrace. Breakfast and Wi-Fi included. Laundry 35 pesos per load. Check-out 1pm. Dorms 100 pesos; private rooms 150 pesos per person. Cash only.

Casa de Pita, Cabecita 26

(☎732 1532; www.casadepita.com.mx )

Nnear Plaza Mexiamora. The motherly owner welcomes you into her antique home, traditionally decorated with azulejo ceramics and miraculously equipped with Wi-Fi and cable TV. Breakfast 9-10am daily. Check-out noon. Reservations required. Rooms 250-600 pesos; 3-bed dorms 360 pesos. Cash only.

Hostería del Frayle, Sopeña 3

(☎732-11-79; hfrayle@int.com.mx)

Very expensive during the high season, but the rest of the year you can rent a double room as of 850 pesos the night. Beautiful colonial house in the Spanish tradition. The rooms are splendid, full of paintings and antique furniture. The ones with a view on the street are very quiet and pleasant. Small bathroom covered with ceramic. A very good and charming little address.

FOOD

Guanajuato’s plazas host an abundance of inexpensive restaurants. Near Jardín Unión, prices rise in direct proportion to the number of gringos per block.

Truco 7

(☎732 8374)

The 1st left west of the Basilica. Artsy, spacious, dark, and popular. Cappuccino 18 pesos. Fruit salad 22 pesos. Try the cheese-smothered enchiladas mineras, a Guanajuato specialty (30-50 pesos). Open daily 8:30am-11:30pm. Cash only.

Restaurant Pingüis

Allende 3 (☎732 1414)

At the back of the Jardín Unión. Casera cooking and budget-friendly prices attract both locals and travelers. Enjoy the curious decor while feasting on egg platters (23 pesos) or tacos (30 pesos). Their spicy sopa azteca (20 pesos) is a filling vegetarian starter. Comida corrida 40 pesos. Open daily 8am-9:30pm. Cash only.

Carnitas Sam

Juárez 6 (☎732 0355).

• If Sam could make even the tortillas out of meat, he just might. Savory carnitas (marinated pork) and other treats draw locals late for post-party feasting. Tacos 12 pesos. Quesadillas 6-8 pesos. Open daily 8am-6pm and 7pm-5am. Cash only.

  Las Cupulas Mexicanas

  Cantarranas 43 (☎732 6763)

  Near the Teatro Principal. Grab some cheap, tasty eats with the locals after a night on the town. Tacos (6-12 pesos) and quesadillas (6-10 pesos) are meaty and delicious. Known for their chicharron prensado (crispy pork stew; 20 pesos) and the veggie pambazo (suffed bread with red pepper sauce; 15 pesos). Open daily 10am-5am. Cash only.

  Yamuna

  Calle del Sol 10 (☎732 1873)

  Near the Templo de la Compañía. If you like your enchiladas curried, you’ll love this tiny Indian-influenced vegetarian restaurant with a pleasant vibe and delicious food. Salads 25 pesos. Comida del día 45 pesos. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm. Cash only.

  La Venta de Sancho Panza

  Manuel Doblado 12 (☎732 1020)

  Facing the Plaza del Ropero. In keeping with the town’s Quixote obsession, dishes bear the names of Cervantes’ characters. Ask for their fresh, flakey empanadas to go (18 pesos). Breakfast 50 pesos. Salads 45-60 pesos. Open daily 7:30am-11pm. Cash only.

La Clave Azul

In the back street which relies on the Plaza San Fernando.

Little restaurant with comida corrida until 5 pm. For 75 pesos you receive a succession of little plates with delicious specialties of the day. At night you can have a drink with jazz, blues or latino music on the background. An excellent service for the price!

Open Mo-Sa 1:30 pm- 10pm.

El Gallo Pitagórico

Back street Constancia, behind the hotel San Diego. ( ☎732 9489)

A very good Italian restaurant, with a nice view on the city. The cook spend a few years in Italy and presents a very qualitative and refined cuisine. Don’t forget to order your tiramisù from the very beginning, because it disappears easily from the menu.

Open daily 2 am- 11 pm. Around 150 pesos.

SIGHTS

Guanajuato’s attractions range from the historically fascinating to the morbidly grotesque. Most are near the centro; they are ordered below from east to west.

Sights Near The Centro

Museo Iconográfico Del Quijote. 

-Manuel Doblado 1, by Sopeña. ☎732 3376 or 6721; www.museoiconografico.guanajuato.gob.mx Open Tu-Sa 10am-6:30pm, Su 10am-2:30pm. 20 pesos; students, teachers, and children free.-

This gorgeous example of 18th-century Spanish architecture contains 18 large galleries with over 800 works of art inspired by Cervantes’s anti-hero Don Quixote. Sculptures, stained-glass windows, clocks, and chess pieces illustrate the story’s penetration of popular culture. Paintings include pieces by Dalí, Daumier, Ocampo, and Coronel. Ask about evening concerts.

Jardín Unión.

-Calle Sopeña.Faces the corner of Jardín Unión. ☎732 0183. Check schedule in front of theater for weekly performances. Open Tu-Su 9am-1:45pm and 5-7:45pm, Admission 35 pesos-

One block east of the Basilica, the 200-year-old triangular jardín is the town’s social center. Adjacent shops and cafes are visible through the trees, and musicians add a pleasant voice to the vibrant park. In the afternoons and evenings, crowds gather on shady benches. Mexico’s 1000-peso note pictures the fountain in the Plaza Baratillo, just across the street.

Museo Viviente De Las Leyendas

– ☎756 5991. Spanish only. Open M-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa 10am-7pm, Su noon-7pm. 30 pesos, children and seniors 15 pesos; combo ticket with funicular 35 pesos, children and seniors 25 pesos.-

Brings to life nine Guanajuatense legends with earily life-like animated replicas of the city’s tragic and humorous myths, set to recorded narration. Cringe as the story of the Tuzos Cucos unfolds before your eyes and see the famous father of the Callejón del Beso violently stab his daughter. (At the upper funicular station at Pípila.

Basílica De Nuestra Señora De Guanajuato.

–On Plaza de la Paz. Open daily 8am-9pm.

This elegant Baroque structure was finished in 1696 but did not become a basilica until 1957. Dozens of candelabra illuminate the interior, decorated with fine ornamental frescoes. A wooden image of the city’s protectress, Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato, rests on a pure silver base and is believed to be the oldest piece of Christian art in Mexico. Rumor has it that it was hidden in a grotto in Grenada for eight centuries before being sent to Guanajuato as a gift from King Carlos I of Spain. 

Templo De La Compañía. 

-Calle del Sol 16, next to the university. ☎732 1827. Templo open daily 7:30am-9:30pm. Museum open Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-2pm. 10 pesos, students and children 5 pesos. Guided tours: in Spanish Tu-Su 1pm, in English Sa 2pm.-

Completed in 1765, this Jesuit temple and college, much larger than the Basilica, was shut down in 1785. Just two years later, the Jesuits were expelled from Spanish America altogether. In 1828, the building hosted the Colegio del Estado, which spawned the city’s modern university. The ornate stone exterior is striking, with four Churrigueresque facades still intact and a contrasting Neoclassical dome from 1808. The entrance to a small art museum lies to the left of the altar and includes a 17th-century painting of San Ignacio de Loyola and an 18th-century representation of San Francisco de Asís. Ending the exhibit is a spooky relicario, a wooden shelf enveloped in gold leaf and holding human bones.

Museo Del Pueblo De Guanajuato.

-Positos 7. ☎732 2990. Spanish only. Open Tu-Sa 10am-6:30pm, Su 10am-2:30pm. 15 pesos; students 5 pesos.-

This 18th-century colonial mansion, home to one of the signatories of the Declaration of Independence, houses a permanent collection of 18th- and 19th-century Mexican art. It also includes many intricately detailed crafts and over 1000 pieces of miniature art-work, along with rotating contemporary art exhibits. An impressive reconstruction of a Baroque church facade on the second floor houses José Chávez Morado’s Estipite Fracturado, a mural recounting the horrors of colonial exploitation. 

 Museo Y Casa De Diego Rivera. 

-Positos 47. ☎732 1197. Open Tu-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-3pm. 15 pesos, students 5 pesos; ticket sales stop 30min. before closing.-

This museum chronicles the life of Guanajuato’s most famous native son, born in 1886 in this house. Visitors can see old furniture from his childhood home before moving upstairs to chronologically arranged works representing his different artistic periods. Don’t miss the watercolor illustrations of the Popol Vuh (the sacred book of the Maya), or his preliminary sketch for a section of the mural commissioned in 1933 for New York City’s Rockefeller Center. Rotating exhibits occupy the top floor. 

Callejón Del Beso. 

-From Juárez, walk south along Plaza de los Ángeles and turn left into the alley.-

This is the legendary narrow alleyway across which a Spanish aristocrat’s daughter flirted with her impoverished—and forbidden—lover. According to local lore, her father flew into a rage and stabbed his daughter to death upon discovering their “Kissing Alley” tryst. Today, local superstition dictates that passing lovers should kiss on the third step or face bad luck. Local capitalism dictates that they climb up to the balcony for a 60-peso photo. 

Mercado Hidalgo. 

-On Juárez, by Jardín de la Reforma. Most stalls open daily 9am-9pm; top-floor stalls selling crafts tend to open later and close earlier.-

Established in 1910 in honor of the 100th anniversary of the struggle for independence, the mercado sells everything from meat to hand-crafted dolls. Most of the fun is haggling over prices. The first floor houses some of the best and cheapest food and candy in town. 

Museo De Las Momias. 

-Esplanada del Panteón, next to the city cemetery east of town. Take a “Las Momias” bus from in front of the Basilica or the market; 4 pesos. Buses drop off and pick up in front of museum. ☎732 0639. Open daily 9am-6pm. 50 pesos, students 35 pesos, children 30 pesos, seniors with Mexican credentials 15 pesos. Museo del Culto de la Muerte 10 pesos.-

The high mineral content of Guanajuato’s soil naturally mummified the 111 corpses and four heads now on display at the museum, though now only 58 currently being exhibited. Gag at the purplish, inflated body of a drowning victim; at a woman buried alive, frozen in her attempt to scratch her way out of the coffin; and at two fashionable Frenchmen, one hanged and one stabbed. The museum’s oldest mummy has been here for around 140 years, while the most recent acquisition has been around since 1985. Tread cautiously through catacombs in the attached Museo de Culto de la Muerte and view morbid holograms and torture weapons of the colonial era, including a coffin of spikes. Pose for a photo with replica mummies outside.

Sights Away From The Centro

Ex-Hacienda De San Gabriel De Barrera.

-Catch a 4-peso “Noria Alta/Marfil” bus across from the mercado and tell the driver you’re headed to San Gabriel de la Barrera. Get off at Hotel Misión and follow the road next to the hotel across the street from the bus stop down into the hacienda. ☎732 0619. Open daily 9am-6pm; closed from Christmas to New Year’s Day. 22 pesos; children and students 15 pesos.-

The 17 glorious gardens, covering about three acres, are perhaps the most beautiful of Guanajuato’s many natural attractions. Cobbled paths, well-groomed flora, and whistling birds create the perfect atmosphere for a stroll. The ex-hacienda itself, which is just as impressive, borders the gardens. Its rooms contain 16th- and 17th-century furniture, silverware, and paintings, but lack detailed labels.