Half a century ago, Puerto Vallarta (pop. 350,000) was just another sleepy fishing village lost in the jungle between the mountains and a massive bay on the Pacific. Richard Burton, Liz Taylor, and droves of reporters following the lovers invaded the tiny village in 1963 to film Night of the Iguana, uncovering the beauty of the area for the world to see. The film thrust Vallarta into the public eye, jumpstarting the development of the city of 200,000 that is now famed as a tourist destination. While Night of the Iguana is long forgotten, Vallarta’s massive resorts, epic nightlife, and timeless allure ensure it will remain a popular destination far into the future.
Flights
Ordaz International Airport (PVR), 8km north of town. To get downtown from the airport, take a blue “Centro” or “Olas Altas” bus or a taxi. To get back from town, catch a “Novia Alta,” “Marfil,” or “Aeropuerto” bus on Cárdenas, Insurgentes, or Juárez. Served by Aeroméxico (☎224 2777, toll-free ☎800-021-4000); Alaska (☎221 1350); American (☎221 1799, toll-free ☎800-904-6000); Continental (☎221 2213); and Mexicana (☎221 1266, toll-free ☎800-501-9900).
Buses
The bus station is north of the centro, just beyond the airport. To get downtown, take a “Centro” or “Olas Altas” bus or taxi. To get to the bus station from downtown, take an “Ixtapa” bus (4.50 pesos) northbound at the plaza. Primera Plus/Flecha Amarilla (☎290 0715) offers service to: Mexico City (12hr., 7pm, 823 pesos); Aguascalientes (8hr., 2:45pm, 551 pesos); Guadalajara (5hr., every hr. 8am-1am, 336 pesos); León (8hr.; 11:45am, 1:45, 10:30pm; 578 pesos); Manzanillo (5hr.; 7, 10:30am, 1:30, 4:30, 10pm; 184 pesos) via Barra de Navidad (4hr., 173 pesos); Melaque (4hr., 168 pesos); Querétaro (12hr., 9pm, 620 pesos). Futura (☎290 1001), ETN (☎290 0996 or 290 0997), and Pacífico (☎280 1008) offer similar services.
Taxis
Leave from the centro for the airport, bus station, or Marina Vallarta (60 pesos). Rides into town are much cheaper.
Local Buses
Local buses enter the city on México, which becomes Díaz Ordaz. All combis and any municipal bus operating south of the Sheraton or labeled “Centro” pass the main plaza, while those labeled “Hoteles” service the hotel strip. Buses stop at the clearly marked parada signs and at the covered benches, but you can flag one down almost anywhere. Buses going to points south go along Badillo, while those heading north travel along Juárez. (Buses and combis operate daily 6am-10pm. 4.50 pesos.)
Car Rental
National, Ascencio km 1.5 (☎01 800 003 9500), at the airport. Thrifty, Ascencio 7926 (☎221 2984).
ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Running roughly east-west, Río Cuale bisects Puerto Vallarta before hitting the ocean. Mex. 200 from Manzanillo runs into town south of the river, becoming Insurgentes. The ritzy waterfront between Plaza Mayor and 31 de Octubre, called the malecón, is home to pricey restaurants, hotels, clubs, and the quintessential souvenir shops. North of the malecón, Morelos becomes Perú before joining the coastal route. Farther north lie the airport, marina, and bus station. The Zona Romántica, southwest of the river, is a mixture of bars, cafes, businesses, shops, and restaurants of all sorts. The southern end has almost all the cheap hotels, best beaches, and budget restaurants.
Tourist Offices
(☎226 8080 or 223 2500, ext. 230 or 231), on Juárez in the Presidencia Municipal. The Secretaria de Turismo del Estado de Jalisco (SETUJAL; ☎221 2676 or 2677), on the 2nd fl. of Plaza Marina. Free maps, brochures, and local English-language newspapers. Distributes Bay, a free publication that lists entertainment options in the city. Open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa 9am-noon. Another branch located inside the Parque Hidalgo (☎226 8080 ext. 230.) Open daily 11am-6pm.
Consulates
Canada, Blvr. Ascencio 1951 (☎293 0099, emergencies 800 706 2900; fax 293 0098), in the hotel zone. Open M-F 9am-3pm. US (☎222 0069, emergencies 013 332 682 145 in Guadalajara; fax 223 0074), in Nuevo Vallarta north of the city. Open M-F 8:30am-12:30pm.
Currency Exchange and Banks: Banamex (☎226 6110), at Juárez and Zaragoza, in front of the Presidencia Municipal. Open M-F 9am-4pm, Sa 10am-2pm. Banorte, Olas Altas 246 (☎223 0481), between V. Carranza and Badillo. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 10am-2pm. Both have 24hr. ATMs. Casas de cambio are everywhere, especially near the malecón. Rates vary, but are lower than at banks. Most open daily 9am-7pm.
American Express: Morelos 660 (☎223 2955; fax 223 2926), at Abasolo. Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm.
Luggage storage: At the bus station. 3 pesos per hr. Open 24hr.
Bookstore: Una Página en el Sol, Olas Altas 339 (☎222 3608), at Diéguez. Additional location at Aldama 180 (☎223 0115). Book exchanges welcome. Most English-language books 20-40 pesos. Huge sandwiches 30-40 pesos, small desserts 16-25 pesos. Open daily 7:30am-midnight.
Laundromat: Laundry Aguamátic, Constitución 279 (☎222 5978), between Cárdenas and Carranza. 12 pesos per kg. Open M-Sa 9am-8pm.
Emergency: ☎060.
Police: Revolución 350 (☎290 0507 or 0512), by the airport. Take a “Las Juntas” bus.
Red Cross: (☎222 1533) on Río de la Plata at Río Balsas. Take the “Cruz Roja” bus from Cárdenas and Insurgentes.
Hospitals: CMQ Hospital, Badillo 365 (☎223 1919), at Insurgentes. Also has a 24hr. pharmacy (☎222 1330). Hospital Medasist, Diéguez 360 (☎223 0444 or 0656), at Insurgentes.
Internet Access: PV Cafe.com, Olas Altas 250 (}/fax 222 0092), at Rodríguez. Cafe, small bar, fax, and copy service. Internet 35 pesos per hr. Wi-Fi available. Significant discounts for members; temporary memberships available. Open daily 8am-1am. A 24hr. Internet cafe is located inside the Hotel Río, Morelos 170. (☎222 0366. 15 pesos per hr. Cash only.)
Post Office: Colombia 1014 (☎223 1360 or 222 6308) , about 12 blocks north of the plaza on Juárez. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Postal Code: 48300.
ACCOMMODATIONS
A city of ritzy resorts and condos, the only budget hotel options in Puerto Vallarta are south of the river, clustered on a small strip of Madero. Camping on the beach is prohibited in Puerto Vallarta, but once you pass into Nayarit it is permissible. Look for stretches of beach not adjoining hotels, and exercise caution overnight.
Hotel Azteca, Madero 473
(☎222 2750), between Jacarandas and Naranjo. Beautiful, potted plants extend through the courtyard to the 2nd fl., where clean rooms with bath and fan await. Towel deposit 50 pesos. Reception 24hr. Singles 200 pesos, with TV 250; doubles 300/350 pesos. Up to 50 pesos extra in high season. Cash only.
Hotel Villa del Mar, Madero 440
(☎222 2885 or 0785), 2 blocks east of Insurgentes. A high-ceilinged lobby winds around a sweeping staircase surrounded with eclectic posters from faraway lands. Large, clean rooms with bath and fan; some with access to the pretty green side courtyard. Rooftop terrace with a view of the centro. Towel deposit 50 pesos. Singles 230 pesos, with balcony 300 pesos; doubles 260/350 pesos. All rooms at balcony prices during high season. 6% fee for MC/V.
Hostel Oasis, Libramiento 222
(☎222 2636; www.oasishostel.com ). Take a “Tunel” bus and get off at the first traffic light. Located a short walk from the centro, the only youth hostel in town offers simple dorms, communal bathrooms, laundry service, Internet access, luggage storage and lockers, and a communal kitchen. Breakfast included. Check-in 6am-midnight. 140 pesos per night. Cash only.
Hotel Belmar, Insurgentes 161
(☎223 1872), at the corner of Serdán. A gleaming staircase leads past the lobby to gorgeous white rooms with large beds, luxurious bathrooms, outdoor sinks, and balconies overlooking most of Vieja Vallarta to the river. Reception 24hr. Singles 290 pesos; doubles 370 pesos; A/C 60 pesos extra. AmEx/MC/V.
Hotel Lina, Madero 376
(☎222 1661). Lina’s vivid color scheme lends a tropical ambience that carries over into comfortable rooms with TV, bath, and fan. Reception 24hr. Singles 200 pesos; doubles 250 pesos. 30 pesos more in high season. Cash only.
Hotel Ana Liz, Madero 429
(☎222 1757). Small rooms with funky curtains hold wood-framed beds, bath, fan, and lots of furniture. Reception 24hr. Singles 190 pesos; doubles low season 220 pesos, high season 250 pesos; triples 300 pesos. Cash only.
Hotel Bernal, Madero 423
(☎222 3605). An inviting courtyard leads to clean, spare rooms. Private bath and fans. Free purified water. Towel deposit 30 pesos. Reception 24hr. Singles 220 pesos; doubles 280 pesos; triples 340 pesos. 30-40 pesos more in high season. Cash only.
FOOD
Puerto Vallarta, living up to its international billing, serves cuisine from around the globe. It comes with a hefty cost, though, and finding cheap food can be a challenge. The best place to look is south of the river, where a slew of restaurants serve traditional tacos and antojitos for decent prices. Innumerable street vendors along Madero and Cárdenas hawk decent tacos at all hours of the day and night for the lowest prices in the city. Olas Altas and the surrounding streets are home to a variety of cafes and delis with lighter options. There is also a supermarket, Gutiérrez Rizo, at Constitución and Serdán. (☎222 0222. Open daily 6:30am-11pm. AmEx.)
Planeta Vegetariano, Iturbide 270
(☎222 3073; www.planetavegetariano.com ), at Hidalgo, a few blocks inland from Plaza Mayor. This intimate, muraled vegetarian restaurant deserves its glittering reputation, with new dishes and themes every day. The all-you-can-eat buffet (65 pesos) includes 5 gourmet dishes (non-dairy options available), soup, salad bar, agua fresca, coffee, tea, and dessert. Breakfast buffet M-Sa 8am-11:30am. Dinner buffet daily 11:30am-10pm. Open daily 8am-10pm. Cash only.
Restaurant Brasil, Carranza 210
(☎222 2909), off Vallarta. This Brazilian grill is for the ambitious, serving up course after course of exquisitely prepared meats complemented by mountains of garnish and fried plantains—tell the waiter when you can’t lift the fork anymore and he’ll stop bringing meat. Mens dinner 190 pesos, for women 160 pesos. Open daily 2-9pm. MC/V.
La Casa de los Hot Cakes, Badillo 289
(☎222 6272), at Constitución. A piece of genuine Americana in Vieja Vallarta, with the full run of breakfast foods on the menu. Waffle and pancake specials 31-40 pesos. American coffee 13 pesos. Pressed orange juice 12 pesos. Open daily 8am-2pm. Cash only; US dollars accepted.
The Coffee Cup, Gómez 146-A
(☎222 8584; www.thecoffeecuppv.com ), near Olas Altas. A blend of Mexican beans from around the Republic flavors the air in this cafe/deli. The fruit smoothies (37 pesos) go well with the large deli wraps (55 pesos). Coffee beans 95 pesos per kg. Free Wi-Fi. Open daily 8am-10pm. Cash only.
Las Tres Huastecas, Olas Altas 444
(☎222 3017), on the corner of Rodriguez. The poetry of “El Querreque,” as the oaxaqueño owner refers to himself, is immortalized on the walls of his simple breakfast spot. Quick scrambled eggs with tortillas and fried potatoes 30 pesos. Open daily 7am-8pm. Cash only.
Lonchería Chuyin, Libertad 187
(☎222 6411), between Juárez and Morelos. Take the food to go and sit in Plaza Mayor or on the malecón. Serves an abundance of options for a quick bite: 2 burritos or 3 sincronizadas (toasted tortillas) for 25 pesos. Sandwiches 23-30 pesos. Fruity licuados 17-22 pesos. Open daily 8am-10pm. Cash only.
Art Cafe, Hidalgo 390
(☎222 4812), on the corner of Iturbide. Choose from healthful options: tea, coffee, sandwiches, salads, and desserts. A Mediterranean smorgasbord at its finest in an artsy downtown setting. Espresso 15 pesos. Pastrami and other sandwiches 55-65 pesos. Open 9am-9pm. Cash only.
SIGHTS AND BEACHES
Vallarta’s most popular attractions are its natural gifts: the striking green mountains and the miles of coastline and warm water. Watersports enthusiasts have a lot to choose from in Vallarta—activities like parasailing (8-10min. ride US$30) are extremely popular, especially in the morning. Jet skis (doubles 550 pesos per 30min.), banana boats (350 pesos per person for 1hr.), and kayaks (150 pesos per hr.), are also available—ask around at the pier and on the malecón. Chico’s Dive Shop, 772 Díaz Ordaz, offers scuba diving courses, certification classes, and trips. (☎222 1895 or 1875 at Mismaloya; www.chicos-diveshop.com. 1hr. course US$25. Certification classes US$370. 4hr. of snorkeling 400 pesos per person. English-speaking staff lowers rates for returning customers and groups. Open daily 8am-10pm.) Equestrian fanatics can take to the hills on horseback; sign up at the stand in the plaza on Olas Altas at Carranza. (☎222 0386. 150 pesos per hr.)
Some of the least crowded and most gorgeous beaches stretch south of town on the road to Mismaloya and north into Nayarit. The beaches near the centro are used most often for chatting and people-watching along the malecón, or for the watersports centered around Muelle de los Muertos (Pier of the Dead), which separates Playa de los Muertos (Beach of the Dead) from Playa de Olas Altas (Tall Waves Beach). The former has clearer water and is a better swimming area. The muddy river empties into the ocean at Olas Altas, which is a more popular spot for watersports. To get to either, walk west along Cárdenas or Badillo. Near the southern end of Playa de los Muertos is The Blue Chairs resort, the world’s largest gay and lesbian beachfront resort.
Isla del Río Cuale is accessible by short stairways from both bridges spanning the Río Cuale, as well as by a bridge on the seaward side that connects the island with Playa de Olas Altas. A tree-shaded pathway runs the length of the diminutive island, past restaurants, boutiques, a club, and merchants’ stands with handicrafts and souvenirs. The Museo del Cuale, at the seaward end of the island, houses interesting displays on Mesoamerican culture and regional history. (Open M-F 9am-2pm and 3-6pm. Free.) Steep stairs beginning behind the Church of Guadalupe lead up the mini-mountain into the wealthy Zaragoza neighborhood, known locally as “Gringo Gulch,” where the first Americans and Canadians relocated. The rose-colored bridge spanning the rooftops connects Casa Kimberley, Zaragoza 445, the former love nest of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, to its rooftop pool in the building across the street.
While best known for its beaches and clubs, Puerto Vallarta has a startlingly large art community demonstrated by the numerous art galleries all over town, which feature all types of media. Each week from October to May, a program called ArtWalk showcases different galleries around the city. Each Wednesday from 6-10pm, some of the galleries have free cocktail exhibitions of their work. Pick up a program from the tourist office or look for ArtWalk flags around town. Most ArtWalk galleries have regular summer hours. Call specific galleries for more information. For a thrill, head to La Paloma bullring, located on Av. Las Palmas across from the Marina. Four bullfighters are showcased each week on Wednesday night at 5pm. (☎221 0414. Tickets 350 pesos. Take a 60-peso taxi or a 5-peso bus to SAM’S/Wal-Mart and walk down Las Palmas.) A quieter night waits at Cine Bahía, Insurgentes 63, showing American and international films, often dubbed into Spanish. (☎222 1717. 30 pesos, senior citizens and children 25 pesos; Tu 25 pesos)
NIGHTLIFE
Like any resort destination, Puerto Vallarta boils over every night with thousands of well-dressed locals and foreigners streaming onto the malecón and nearby streets. The boardwalk sees the most action at night, while the lively gay scene centers south of the river on Olas Altas. The Zona Romántica offers smaller, more intimate bars, while the Plaza Marina far north of the city (reachable by taxi, 60-80 pesos, or a 15min. hike from the last bus route) has a series of clubs catering to college student staying in nearby hotels. The party doesn’t really start until 11pm-midnight, but go a little early to beat the lines outside the bigger clubs, which generally charge a hefty cover of 100-150 pesos. US dollars are accepted at most clubs.
Zoo, Díaz Ordaz 630
(☎222 4945). Pumping music keeps the beat for the revelers on the cramped dance floor, drinks in hand. The bravest move into the iron cages. An elephant statue adds to the animal motif. Cover Sa-Su 150 pesos; includes 2 drinks. Open daily noon-6am. MC/V.
Hilo, Díaz Ordaz 622
(☎223 5361), on the waterfront. Most of the club is a dance floor, with a young crowd packing into the standing room and groups of girls dancing atop the bar. Private seating upstairs offers some relief from the sweaty crowds and loud rap below. Beer 30 pesos. Mixed drinks 50 pesos. Cover F-Sa 100 pesos. Open daily 4pm-6am. Cash only.
Cafe San Ángel
(☎223 1273), Olas Altas 449, on the corner of F. Rodríguez. Modern art, chill music, and the occasional acoustic performance give this bistro/bar an alternative, intellectual vibe. Relax in the wicker chairs and enjoy the tapas (45-65 pesos). Breakfast served all day. Coffee 25 pesos, hard drinks 35-40 pesos. Open daily 8am-2am. Cash only.
Christine Discotheque
(☎224 0202 or 2990) on Av. Las Garzas, located in the NH Krystal hotel just before the marina. The proximity to resorts north of the city draws crowds of college kids who pack the dance floor and the seating area. Massive video screen. Occasional concerts and special events; drop by for a schedule. Dress code F-Sa, no shorts or t-shirts. Cover W and F-Sa 200 pesos for men, 100 pesos for women; Th and Su 440 pesos with open bar. Open W-Su 10pm-6am. AmEx/D/MC/V.
Club Roxy, Ignacio Vallarta 217
Between Madero and Carranza. A mix of ages frequents Roxy to hear the live reggae-rock and 70s dance music. Live music starts at 10:30pm. Beer 25 pesos. Bebidas nacionales 2-for-1 8-11pm. Open M-Sa 8am-4pm.
Boda ReAl 