You’re as likely to see greying hippies as mariachis in this diverse town known for its influx of artists, who say the sunshine is particularly inspirational here. Today, expats account for up to 12% of the population. Despite a surfeit of English-speakers, the city’s lively mercado, shady plazas, colonial churches, and quiet gardens retain a calm appeal.
BUSES
To get from the bus station to the centro, take a “Centro” bus (every 15min. 7am-10pm, 4 pesos) to the corner of Colegio and Mesones, near the statue of Allende on horseback. Walk 2 blocks west on Mesones, then 1 block left on Relox to Plaza Principal. Alternatively, take a taxi (20 pesos).
Flecha Amarilla (☎152 0084)
Goes to: Guadalajara (5hr., 5 per day 7:15am-8pm, 336 pesos); Guanajuato (1hr., 7 per day 7:15am-8pm, 81 pesos); Mexico City (3hr.; M-Sa 9:40am and 4pm, Su 9:40am, 4, 5pm; 212 pesos); Querétaro (1hr.; 5:30, 6:30, 7:20am, and every 40min. 8am-8pm; 42 pesos); San Luis Potosí (4hr., 7 per day 7:30am-6:45pm, 126 pesos).
Herradura de Plata/Pegasso Plus (☎152 0725) and ETN (☎152 6407) provide similar service to fewer locations.
CAR RENTAL
HOLA
Plaza Principal 8 (☎152 0198 or 154 8621; www.holarentacar.com). Rates start at 402 pesos per day, plus insurance and mileage.
ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION
San Miguel is 97km southeast of Guanajuato and 274km northwest of Mexico City. Most attractions are within walking distance of the centro, Jardín Principal (in the Plaza Principal). Calles San Francisco, Relox, Correo, and Hidalgo border the Jardín. The names of east-west streets change every few blocks. The towering parroquia in front of the Jardín Allende is always visible.
Tourist Office
Consejo Turístico (☎152 0900; www.turismosanmiguel.com.mx), Plaza Principal 8, opposite the Parroquia. Open M-F 8:30am-8pm, Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-5:30pm.
Tours
Tranvía Turístico “El Mayorazgo”, Plaza Principal 18 (☎154 5408; www.transtur-imperial.com)
Offers comprehensive 1hr. trolley tours (6 per day, M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-8pm; English-language tour 4pm; 60 pesos, children 40 pesos). The library runs a colonial House & Garden tour, departing from the library (Su noon, 150 pesos), to benefit an educational charity. Private tours offered in high season by private guides like Ricardo Salgado González (☎154 5965, cell 111 3817; ricardo_salgado60@yahoo.com.mx).
ACCOMMODATIONS
As San Miguel’s popularity with foreigners rises, budget accommodations become harder to find. In general, prices drop as you move farther from the Jardín. Many hotels will offer discounts for longer stays. All require noon check-out.
Hostal Alcatraz, Relox 54
(☎152 8543; www.geocities.com/alcatrazhostel).
Popular, homey hostel with single-sex dorms. Everyone mingles in the kitchen, TV room, and central patio. Free Internet. 20-peso key deposit. Reception open M-Sa 9am-10pm, Su 10am-9pm. 4- to 6-bed dorms 102 pesos. Cash only. Also manages the modern Hostel Inn, a few blocks north, popular with large groups. Dorms 120 pesos; doubles with bath 270 pesos. Cash only. Alcatraz 1, Inn
Casa de Huéspedes, Mesones 27
(☎152 1378)
Around the corner from the Templo del Oratorio. Tastefully decorated, spacious rooms branch off the courtyard; some with balconies and talavera baths. Top-floor terrace has spectacular views of the city’s churches. Reservations recommended. Singles 180 pesos; doubles 300 pesos; up to 2 additional people, 100 pesos each. Monthly rates available for apartments with kitchens. Cash only.
Hotel Allende, Hidalgo 22
(☎152 7929; hotelallendesma@yahoo.com.mx).
Simple, carpeted rooms all have cable TV and Wi-Fi. Room #15 has a bathtub and a grandiose view through a floor-to-ceiling window. Receptionist Leobardo gives Spanish classes (1hr., 80 pesos). Reservations recommended. Doubles 350; up to 2 additional people 100 pesos each. Cash only.
Hotel Mayorazgo, Hidalgo 8
(☎152 1309; posadamayorazgo@hotmail.com)
Between San Francisco and Mesones. Huge rooms with spacious bath and TV surround a grassy outdoor patio in this centrally located hotel. Cozy apartments with small kitchen and living area also available. Reception open 8am-midnight; ring bell if unattended. Singles 250 pesos; doubles 300 pesos; apartments 350 pesos for 2 people, 100 pesos per additional person.
Posada San Miguelito, Canal 9
(☎154 8393; www.posadasanmiguelito.com)
Just half a block west of the Jardín. Cable TV, Wi-Fi, and a beautiful rooftop terrace. Rustic decor. Rooms on the second fl. have balconies. Reservations requested. Doubles 450-600 pesos; up to 2 additional people 100 pesos each. MC/V. 4
FOOD
Restaurants and cafes occupy almost every corner of San Miguel, and the sweet aroma of international cuisine wafts through the cobbled streets. Unfortunately, prices can be high. For the best values, visit the streets around the mercado on Colegio.
You can get delicious and cheap tortas (13-40 pesos) at Tortitlán 1, Juárez 17, between San Francisco and Mesones. (☎152 3376 or 154 6688. Tacos 9-19 pesos. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-5pm. Cash only.)
Supermarket and market
Bonanza, Mesones 43A, is a local supermarket. (☎152 1260. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 8am-5pm. Cash only.) The covered Mercado Ignacio Ramírez, where Colegio meets Animas, is where most locals do their daily food shopping. The Mercado de San Juan de Dios and el parian pedestrian area between Insurgentes and San Rafael also offer cheap eats.
El Comal de Doña Meche, Insurgentes 62
(☎152 0012)
Facing the library. Under colorful paper streamers, Doña Meche herself serves up fat gorditas and tortillas stuffed with anything from migaja (breadcrumbs; 11 pesos) to the smokey mole con pollo (chicken; 13 pesos). Put out the fire from a greasy, spicy, and delicious chile relleno (stuffed peppers; 25 pesos) with horchata (7 pesos). Open daily 9:30am-8:30pm. Cash only.
Los Burritos, Mesones 69-A
(☎152 3222)
Tasty and economical comida rápida. Family-run local staple offers huge selection of burritos (4-6 pesos). Carnivorous travelers will like the burrito maxi (10 pesos) and the hot and cheesy burriqueso maxi (15 pesos). Fresh fruit juice (6 pesos) puts a sweet end to the meal. Open M-Sa 10:30am-6pm. Cash only.
La Villa de Pancho, Quebrada 12
(☎152 1247)
Near the corner of Pilancón. Welcome to the home of the friendly father-daughter duo, Carlos and Cristina. Cerveza 12-16 pesos. Breakfast all day 25-35 pesos. Comida corrida from 40 pesos. Open daily 11am-9pm. Attached Casa de Huéspedes and lavandería. Wash and dry 10 pesos per kg. 3
La Piñata, Jesús 1
(☎544 001)
On Umarán, a block west of the Jardín. Enjoy a seemingly bottomless licuado (18 pesos) with the mellow mix of locals, students, and backpackers feasting on veggie tostadas (10 pesos) and sandwiches (20-25 pesos) in this small but animated spot. Breakfast 40 pesos. Comida corrida 50 pesos. Open daily 8:30am-10pm. Cash only.
El Taco Real, Relox 15
(☎152 6677).
Serves up an affordable and stylish Mexican feast. Daily vegetarian-friendly buffet (65 pesos) includes creamy mushroom rajas and pozole (chicken and corn soup). All the agua fresca you can drink 10 pesos. Breakfast 45 pesos. Open daily 9am-8pm. Cash only.
Dulces Típicas, Ancha de San Antonio 3
(☎152 2882)
This dulcería dishes out savory tacos (3 for 12 pesos) from 9am until noon. While there, ogle the marzipan and cinnamon cactus in its glass box (298 pesos), or snap up the more reasonably priced champagne- or tequila-flavored cajeta sweets (28 pesos per box). Coffee 6 pesos. Open M and W-Su 9am-8pm. Cash only.
Las Musas, Macías 75
(☎152 4946)
Inside Bellas Artes. Italian and Mexican cuisine among the cultural center’s murals. Feast on sweet pastries created under the supervision of the Italian-born owner. Salads 59-65 pesos. Lasagna 70 pesos. Pizzas 79-95 pesos. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 10am-2pm. Cash only.
SIGHTS
The best way to experience San Miguel is by foot—nearly all sites of interest lie within walking distance of the Jardín. They are listed in order of prominence.
La Parroquia.
-Calle Plaza Principal Sur, in front of the Jardín. ☎152 4197. Open daily 6am-9pm. Mass daily 6, 7, 9am, noon, 8:15pm, Su also 8am, 1pm.-
San Miguel’s most impressive sight was built in the 17th century by indigenous forced labor as punishment for killing Spanish herds. The neo-Gothic facade and tower were added to the church in 1890 by indígena mason Zeferino Gutiérrez, who is rumored to have learned the style from postcards of French cathedrals. Pointed arches and flute-like towers enclose chandeliers and gold trim that glitter in the sunlight. At the front is a tremendous gold-leaf altar. The basement holds the tomb of Anastasio Bustamante, three-time president between 1830 and 1841, although his heart resides in a chapel in Mexico City. Spotlights illuminate the church at night.
San Miguel For Pocket Change.
To see the sights without spending a dime, check out the murals in the 18th century Bellas Artes center (always free). On Sundays the Casa de Allende is free also. For the biggest selection of ceramics and silverwork, descend the stairs at the corner of Relox and Palmar to the Mercado de Artesanías. Nearby, the covered Mercado Igancio Ramírez, where Colegio meets Animas, is where most locals do their daily food shopping. The Mercado de San Juan de Dios and the pedestrian area between Insurgentes and San Rafael also offer cheap eats. After dark, take advantage of 2-for-1 drinks at La Azotea, then continue on to El Caporal for live Mexican music.
Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez
-Macías 75, next to Iglesia de la Concepción. ☎152 0289; cceninba@prodigy.net.mx. Galleries open Tu-Sa 10am-5:30pm.-
“El Nigromante” (Bellas Artes) . Housed in a former 18th-century convent, this cultural center and art school has become one of the most important spaces in San Miguel. The building previously functioned as a primary school for girls and a fortress before taking shape as an art school in the 1930s. Today, the cultural center presents magnificent temporary exhibits and is a common venue for the town’s varied festivals, including the Chamber Music Festival. The stunning murals around the peaceful, manicured courtyard are by Pedro Martínez, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and Eleanor Cohen. The center also offers various classes, including ceramics, dance, art, and guitar, some in English. There are also occasional European and US film showings.
Other Sights Away From The Centro
The Jardín Botánico el Charco del Ingenio
-Taxi from Jardín Principal, 30 pesos. You can also take a 4-peso “Gigante” bus from Colegio and Mesones; get off at the Gigante stop and walk 15min. north along the highway. Signs will guide the way.☎154 4715;www.laneta.apc.org/charco. Camping available. Open daily 9am-4pm. 30 pesos, students and children 15 pesos.-
Is home to colonial ruins and a dazzling array of cacti and succulents. About 1300 species grow along 8km of walking paths in the park (1 sq. km)
Enjoy thebreathtaking view of San Miguel and the surrounding mountains from the mirador above the city. (From the Jardín, go east 3 blocks on Correo to Salida Real a Querétero; take a right and walk south for 15min. The mirador will be on your left. Or, take a 4-peso “Gigante” bus from Colegio and Mesones or Juárez, but tell the driver you’re going to the mirador.)
Hot springs fans will find paradise at La Gruta, just outside of town. Set amidst verdant gardens, their four pools, one of which is in a man-made grotto, are very popular with locals on weekend afternoons. (Carretera San Miguel a Hidalgo km 10. From the station, take a “Dolores Hidalgo” bus and get off at El Cortijo; 10min., 6 pesos. Alternatively, take a “Santuario” bus from Calzada de la Luz and Relox and tell the driver you’re going to La Gruta; 20min., 7 pesos. Turn left on the dirt road directly ahead and follow the signs down the path. When returning to San Miguel, flag down a bus along the road. Or, continue to Dolores Hidalgo by walking right to El Cortijo, crossing the highway and flagging down a bus that says “Dolores”; 40min., 20 pesos. ☎185 2099. La Gruta open daily 8am-5pm. 80 pesos. Cash only.)
Boda ReAl 